A food scientist’s guide to celebrating Thanksgiving in London
Thanksgiving is the one holiday I feel most homesick for in London. Here, the fourth Thursday of November is just another Thursday. Nobody has the day off, the supermarkets are already full of mince pies, and if you mention sweet potatoes with marshmallows on top, you’ll get a very British raised eyebrow.
But this year is different. The Nali team is celebrating Thanksgiving together, and we’re very excited. Which means I’ve spent the last week doing what any food scientist would do: walking supermarket aisles and working out what makes it to the table.
What you can find on UK shelves
The good news is that a Thanksgiving table is very doable in London. You just need to know where the swaps are.
Canned pumpkin. Libby’s canned pumpkin is the backbone of every American pumpkin pie, and it usually turns up in UK supermarkets and American food shops in the autumn. Buy it when you see it, because it disappears fast.
Cranberry sauce. I make my own of course. Just a couple of bags of cranberries with orange juice and orange zest simmered down to the right consistency.
Stuffing. This is where the two sides of the pond meet. Paxo sage and onion is a British staple, and it makes a perfectly good base for American-style stuffing with celery, butter and plenty of broth.
Pie crust. Jus-Rol ready-rolled shortcrust saves a lot of stress, and nobody will know.
Marshmallows. UK marshmallows tend to be softer and sweeter than American ones. They still melt beautifully on sweet potatoes, so don’t let anyone talk you out of it.
The swaps that teach you something
Some of the most interesting differences are hiding in the ingredient lists.
Pecan pie without corn syrup. American pecan pie relies on corn syrup, which is hard to find here. The British swap is golden syrup, like Lyle’s. It gives a deeper, more caramel flavor, and honestly, I think it might be better.
Pumpkin pie spice. You won’t find it labeled that way, but British mixed spice is close. It’s a blend built around cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice, so add a pinch of ginger and you’re there.
The turkey. In the UK, turkey is a Christmas bird, so in November you’ll often find turkey crowns and joints rather than whole birds. If you want a whole turkey, order it from your local butcher a couple of weeks ahead.
Gravy. Americans tend to make gravy from the drippings. Brits have Bisto. I’ll let you decide which side you’re on, but there’s no shame in a backup jar.
Celebrating in London
If cooking for a crowd isn’t your thing, there’s plenty of Thanksgiving spirit around the city. American restaurants and hotels often run Thanksgiving menus, and Friendsgiving has become a proper tradition among expats and the Brits who’ve been converted. American specialty shops and online stores are your friend for the hard-to-find bits, like cornbread mix or Stove Top.
My advice: mix the traditions. Put Yorkshire puddings next to the cornbread, serve the sprouts alongside the green bean casserole, and let everyone bring the dish that tastes like home to them. That’s what Thanksgiving is really about anyway.
What I ate this week that was delicious
Walnut sourdough. Don’t knock it till you’ve tried it.
There’s something about the toasty, slightly bitter nuttiness of walnuts against the tang of a good sourdough that just works. Toast a thick slice, add a generous swipe of salted butter, and you have one of my favorite breakfasts. Walnuts also bring a dose of omega-3s, so I’m calling it a win on flavor and nutrition.
It would make a great addition to the Thanksgiving table too, maybe with a little cranberry sauce on top the next morning.
This piece was first published on Natalie’s Substack: Thanksgiving, across the pond: What Makes It to the Table in London.